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No Indian tour is done without a visit to the most hustling bustling city of India, Mumbai (AKA Bombay) It has the glamour of Bollywood cinema, cricket on the maidans on weekends, bhelpuri on the beach at Chowpatty and red double-decker buses. It is also infamous for cages of the red-light district, Asia's largest slums, communalist politics and powerful mafia dons. However, it is also the city that boasts of two of the best hotels of India. The Taj being one of them.
This pungent drama is played out against a Victorian townscape more reminiscent of a prosperous 19th-century English industrial city than anything you'd expect to find on the edge of the Arabian Sea. Mumbai has vital streetlife, India's best nightlife, and more bazaars than you could ever explore.
An island connected by bridges to the mainland, Mumbai is the industrial hub of everything from textiles to petrochemicals, and responsible for half of India's foreign trade. But while it aspires to be another Singapore, it's also a magnet for the rural poor. It's these new migrants who are continually re-shaping the city, making sure Mumbai keeps one foot in its hinterland while the other kicks ass in the global marketplace

Mumbai is located on India's central-western coast along the Arabian Sea. The city developed for 150 years in isolation from its hinterland and still seems to belong in a different world to the huge, predominantly Hindu state of Maharashtra, which encompasses a 500km (310mi) coastal strip, a portion of the Western Ghats and a significant part of the Deccan plateau. The Western Ghats (literally, steps) start to rise just north of Mumbai and run parallel to the coast. They have an average elevation of 915m (3001ft) and are covered with tropical and temperate evergreen forests and mixed deciduous forest and harbour a rich array of plant and animal life, including 27% of India's flowering plants.
Mumbai itself is an island connected by bridges to the mainland. The principal part of the city is concentrated at the southern claw-shaped end of the island. The southernmost peninsula is known as Colaba and this is where most travellers gravitate, since it has a decent range of hotels and restaurants and two of the city's best landmarks, the Gateway of India and the Taj Mahal Hotel. Directly north of Colaba is the area known as the Fort, since this is where the old British fort once stood. Further west is Marine Drive, which sweeps around Back Bay, connecting the high-rise modern business centre with Chowpatty Beach. To the north are the suburbs of Greater Mumbai. Here you'll find the two airports, Sahar International and the domestic Santa Cruz. Mumbai tour packages both fast track ones and the comrehensive ones are a must for anyone who visits Mumbai for the first time. The grandness, the vastness and the open-ness of the city reflects the true indian spirit.



. ATTRACTIONS  :.

Chowpatty Beach
Mumbai's famous beach is no place for a sunbathe or a dip. In fact, there's not much going on at Chowpatty at all during the day, but in the evening it develops a magical atmosphere as locals come to stroll among the balloon sellers, nut vendors and beach entertainers. Eating bhelpuri at the collection of garishly lit stalls on the edge of the beach at night is an essential part of the Mumbai experience, as is getting a vigorous massage from a malish-wallah. Chowpatty is a great place to witness the annual Ganesh Chaturthi Festival in August/September when large images of the elephant-headed god are immersed in the murky sea.

Colaba
Every visitor to Mumbai comes to look at the exaggerated colonial marker known as the Gateway of India, a yellow basalt arch of triumph officially 'opened' in 1924. It was redundant just 24 years later when the last British regiment ceremoniously departed India from here, and it has become even more of an anachronism as passenger liner services to Mumbai have dried up. It stands on the wonderfully named Apollo Bunder, like a disused back door, and apart from its obligatory roll in the Mumbai snapshot, it's utilised by a colourful crowd of touts, balloon sellers, postcard vendors and snake charmers who give it the hubbub of a bazaar.
The majestic Taj Mahal Hotel overlooks Apollo Bunder and has great views of the gateway from its top floor Apollo Bar. This Mumbai institution was built in 1903 by JN Tata, one of the city's great Parsi benefactors, supposedly after he was refused entry to one of the city's European hotels on account of being 'a native'. The streets behind the Taj Mahal Hotel are the travellers' centre of Mumbai. The main drag of Colaba Causeway is a melee of street vendors, shops, stalls and cafes that leads south to Sassoon Dock - an area of intense and pungent activity at dawn as fishing boats arrive to unload their catch - and north to the fascinating Indo-Saracenic Prince of Wales Museum. The excellent new National Gallery of Modern Art in the nearby Cowasji Jehangir Public Hall showcases Indian modern art and is the city's most dramatic exhibition space.

Crawford Market
The colourful indoor Crawford Market (or Phule Market) is the last outpost of British Bombay before the tumult of the central bazaars begins. It used to be the city's wholesale produce market before this was strategically moved to New Bombay. Today it's where central Mumbai goes shopping for its fruit, vegetables and meat.
Bas reliefs by Rudyard Kipling's father, Lockwood Kipling, adorn the Norman-Gothic exterior, and an ornate fountain he designed stands buried beneath old fruit boxes at the market's centre.
The animal market at the rear sells everything from sausage dogs to cockatoos, most kept in cruelly small cages. The meat market is for the brave only, though it's one of the few places you can expect to be accosted and asked if you want to buy a bloody goat's head. Just south of the market is the J J School of Art, where Rudyard Kipling was born in 1865.

Fort
The extravagant Victorian gothic buildings in the Fort area reinforce the European roots of the city, and send shivers of recognition down the spines of visitors from the industrial cities of northern England. This lively area occupies the site of the old British built fort and is the established commercial centre of Mumbai. It's jampacked with commuters, street stalls and the grand facades of 19th century British institutions and trading houses.

Victoria Terminus
T the city's most exuberant Gothic building, looks more like a lavishly decorated cathedral or palace than anything as mundane as a transportation depot. Carvings of peacocks, gargoyles, monkeys, elephants and British lions are mixed up among the buttresses, domes, turrets, spires and stained-glass windows. Topping it all is a 4m (13ft) high image of 'Progress' - though the rest of the building looks more like a celebration of Pandemonium. Don't wait until you have to catch a train to see it.
Other gems include Bombay University, the High Court, the BMC building and stately Horniman Circle, laid out around the sole surviving section of Bombay's original Cotton Green. St Thomas' Cathedral near Horniman Circle was begun as early as 1672 but remained unfinished until 1718. Its whitewashed interior contains poignant colonial memorials, including one to Henry Robertson Bower, Lieutenant of the Royal Indian Marine, 'who lost his life returning from the South Pole with Scott' - spare the man a thought when it's a sweltering 38°C (100°F) outside.

Haji Ali Mosque
This whitewashed fairytale mosque contains the tomb of the Muslim saint Haji Ali. The saint is believed to have been a wealthy local businessman who renounced the material world and meditated on a nearby headland following a pilgrimage to Mecca. The mosque and tomb were built by devotees in the early 19th century.
Alternative versions say Haji Ali died while on a pilgrimage to Mecca and his casket amazingly floated back to Bombay and landed at this spot.
The mosque can only be reached at low tide, when the causeway is lined with beggars suffering every imaginable affliction and deformity. There's nothing sombre about the building's cool courtyard, which is generally full of chattering families and refreshment stalls. The rocks exposed at low tide behind the mosque are a favourite spot to catch sea breezes.

Kalbadevi
No visit to Mumbai is complete without a foray into the bazaars of Kalbadevi, north of Crawford Market. The narrow lanes of this predominantly Muslim area are hemmed in by laundry-draped chawls, and a seething mass of people bring Mumbai's traffic to a standstill. It's in complete contrast to the relative space, orderliness and modernity of South Mumbai.
Entire streets are often devoted to a single product since caste traditions remain stronger than capitalist marketing theories; this can make browsing a strange experience as you suddenly encounter shop after shop selling bathroom fittings or copper pipes. Some people consider the bazaars a spectacle rather than a place to shop, but it's a lot more fun doing both. The main areas are Zaveri Bazaar (jewellery), Mangaldas Market (cloth), Dhabu St (leather goods) and Chor Bazaar (Mumbai's 'thieves' market'). You can pick up anything at Chor Bazaar from car parts to Victorian porcelain - the traditional joke is that it was probably stolen from you in the first place. Mutton St in Chor Bazaar specialises in antiques, ingenious reproductions and miscellaneous junk. Don't place too much faith in authenticity or the lifespan of objects with mechanical parts.
Apart from the shopping opportunities, this area is also home to the Jama Masjid and the Mumbadevi Temple dedicated to the patron goddess of the island's original Koli inhabitants. It's best to venture into the bazaars without a clear destination in mind and just wander aimlessly until you've had enough.

Malabar Hill
On the northern promontory of Back Bay is the expensive residential area of Malabar Hill, favoured for its cool breezes and fine views over Back Bay. The colonial bungalows that peppered the hillside in the 18th century have now been replaced by the jerry-built apartment blocks of Mumbai's nouveau riche. The formal Hanging Gardens (or Pherozeshah Mehta Gardens) on top of the hill are an interesting spot to study the courting rituals of coy Indian couples nestled among the bestial topiary, and there are superb views of the city from neighbouring Kamala Nehru Park. Beside the Hanging Gardens, but carefully shielded from view, are the Parsi Towers of Silence. Parsis hold fire, earth and water as sacred so do not cremate or bury their dead. Instead the bodies are laid out within the towers to be picked clean by vultures (or crows). Elaborate precautions are taken to keep out ghoulish sightseers.
Towards the southern end of the promontory is the temple of Walkeshwar, the Sand Lord. According to the Ramayana, Rama rested here on his way to rescue Sita in Lanka and constructed a lingam of sand at the site. The original temple was built about 1000 years ago, though the current structure is much more recent. Just below the temple is the Banganga Tank, which was built on the spot where water spouted when Rama shot a bana (arrow) into the ground. Bathing pilgrims and scores of curious kids make this neighbourhood an oasis from the world of luxury apartment blocks towering above.

Marine Drive
Built on land reclaimed from Back Bay in 1920, Marine Drive runs along the shoreline of the Arabian Sea from Nariman Point past Chowpatty Beach to the foot of Malabar Hill. It's one of Mumbai's most popular promenades and a favourite sunset-watching spot. You certainly won't be loitering on the sea wall long before you're engaged in conversation, even if it's with someone offering to show you how well their monkey can breakdance. The promenade is lined with decaying Art Deco apartments just begging for a paint manufacturer to prove what their product can do to brighten up an area. Tourist brochures are fond of dubbing it the Queen's Necklace, because of the dramatic curve of its streetlights at night. It's less spectacular during the day, though there are plans afoot to beautify the area.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
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- Elephanta Island:
Mumbai's major tourist attractions are the rock-cut temples on peaceful Elephanta Island. Thought to have been carved between 450 and 750 AD, the temples survived Portuguese vandalism (one cave was reputedly used by a Portuguese battalion as a shooting gallery) and remain equal in size, beauty and power to the caves at Ajanta and Ellora.

The main cave contains large sculpted panels relating to Siva, including the astonishing 6m/20ft-high triple-headed Trimurti - in which Siva embodies the roles of creator, preserver and destroyer.

- Matheran:
Matheran ('jungle topped') is the nearest hill station to Mumbai and a refreshing break from the heat and noise of the capital. It's an undulating hilltop located about 50km (30mi) east of the city that is cloaked in shady trees and ringed by walking tracks which lead to lookouts that drop sheer to the plains. On a clear day the views are fantastic and it's possible to see (and supposedly even hear) Mumbai from Hart Point. Louisa Point is a great place to watch the sunset, especially during the week when you might have the bluff entirely to yourself.
Hugh Malet, climbing the path known as Shivaji's Ladder, is credited with the 'discovery' of Matheran in 1850. It soon became a popular hill station during the days of the Raj, as the abundant shade and altitude (800m/2624ft) made is slightly cooler than the plains below. Matheran owes its tranquility to a complete ban on motor vehicles (and bicycles), but on weekends, the town is overrun by day-trippers from Mumbai and the pleasant trails are wall to wall with people. Pleasant diversions include little Charlotte Lake and the Parsi and Hindu cemeteries near Rambaug Point.
Getting to Matheran is half the fun; from Neral Junction you take a narrow-gauge toy train up the 21km (15mi) route to the heart of the hill station. It's a two-hour ascent (or 90-minute descent) as the train winds its way around the steep slopes and, at one point, passes through 'one kiss tunnel'.

- Sanjay Gandhi National Park:
This large protected area of forested hills on Mumbai's northern outskirts is best known for the 109 Kanheri Caves which line the side of a rocky ravine in the centre of the park. They were used by Buddhist monks between the 2nd and 9th centuries as viharas (monasteries) and chaityas (temples). The most impressive is cave 3, the Great Chaitya Cave, which has a long colonnade of pillars and a 5m (15ft) high dagoba (pagoda) at the back of the cave. There's also a Lion Safari Park inside the park.

 



WHEN TO GO
Most travellers tend to stick around long enough only to reconfirm their plane tickets or organise transport to Goa, scared off by the city's reputation for squalor and the relatively high cost of accommodation. But Mumbai is a safe and charismatic city that fully rewards exploration. The best time to explore is between the months of September and April, when it is relatively dry and cool.
If you want to come to Mumbai for a big event, make it Ganesh Chaturthi, an 11-day Hindu festival in August/September, which reaches a climax when large images of the elephant-headed god are immersed in the sea, notably off Chowpatty Beach.

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EVENTS

The Elephanta Festival is a classical dance and music event on Elephanta Island, usually held in February.

Ganesh Chaturthi, an 11-day Hindu festival in August or September, reaches a climax when large images of the elephant-headed god are immersed in the sea, notably off Chowpatty Beach. Its current form as a mass procession began only in 1893, when nationalists sought to harness the appeal of a Hindu festival. Celebrated in Mumbai during October or November with particular gusto, Diwali's most significant days are marked by a barrage of firecrackers that turn Marine Drive into a war zone; traditional Diwali lamps are floated in the waters of Banganga Tank.

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